listenwiththeearofyourheart

Day 15- Monday, October 26 – We got a ride back to Arzua from Assumpta Tourism Rural and walked to Salceda / Touriso Salceda.

Day 16- Tuesday, October 27
Woke up to rain in Salceda. Hung around until it stopped and took a chance and started walking to O Pedrouzo / Pensionne a Solaina. Grateful that rain held off.

Day 17 – Wednesday, October 28. Again woke to rain but again it stopped before we left Pedrouzo / Pensionne a Solaina and we walked to Labacolla / Hotel Garcas – only 9kms. from Santiago. It was good to get rested and cleaned up for our final walk.

Day 18 – Thursday, October 29 – last day walking the Camino. Labacolla to Santiago de Compostela / San Martin Pinario – mostly in rain. Soaked but joyful to arrive at destination- the cathedral and last hotel on this part of life’s pilgrimage.

This is a tired Linda in the lobby of our Santiago de Compostala hotel, a converted monastery. I have a great video of that giant incense burner in the cathedral and Linda’s posted other pictures on Facebook.

Our Camino was over but our Spain adventure continued. Linda & I spent 3 nights in Finisterre – the furthest west you can go in Spain-the end of the world for ancient Celts. I posted this before we saw the sunset from Mar de Fora – the beach north of the town – check Linda’s Facebook for those pics and/or take me out for brekky when we are back in Winnipeg next week. Last pic – at 00.0kms with Faro de Fisterra – the Western most lighthouse in Europe and Atlantic Ocean in background. Despite poor exposure our joy and satisfaction is obvious. Thanks be to God for a great time.

Day 12- Friday, October 23
From Portomarin / Albergue El Caminante we walked 17.2 kms. to Airexe / Pensione Eirexe – 73km from Santiago. Many of the stamps are now recording how far from Santiago we are, so I thought I would too.

Potomarin was next to a deep river valley which meant we had a steep climb when we left in the morning – one of many up and downs this day – great opportunities to live into present.

Day 13- Saturday, October 24
At Airexe / Pensione Eirexe – (73km) we woke up to rain and walked to Palas de Rei (69) in light drizzle. Getting wet -especially our shoes which take long to dry – is no fun so we got a ride in an Audi to Melide / Hotel Carlos 96 (55). We wandered Melide and sampled some local delicacies – octopus & pigs ears (been there, done that & won’t do it again). We returned to the hotel where Linda exchanged feet stories with other pilgrims, a common conversation starter on the Camino.

Day 14 – Sunday, October 25
From Melide / Hotel Carlos 96 we walked 17 kms. to Arzua (41) and then were picked up and taken to Assumpta Tourism Rural, a few kilometers out of town, where we spent the night.

Real day 7 – Sunday, October 18
Walked from Villafranca Del Bierzo / Albergue de la Piedra to Vega de Valcerce / Albergue Magdalena. Fine Albergue with great hospitalier, Matthew, who roasted chestnuts over an open fire for us, that evening.

Day 8 – Monday, October 19
It was raining when we woke in Vega de Valcerce / Magdelina so we took a taxi to O Cebreiro. We hung around there for a few hours but the rain kept up so we took another taxi to Alto do Poio / Albergue Santa Maria de Poio. Not much of a walking day. Here’s what we saw all day – taken from the front door of our Albergue of the one across the street.

Day 9 – Tuesday, October 20
Alto do Poio / Albergue Santa Maria de Poio – woke up to fog but no rain so we walked to a small bar at Meso Betularia and called another taxi (to avoid steep knee and hip damaging terrain something that’s as important to avoid as blisters – especially for bodies as seasoned as ours) to Tricastela. Walked from there, blessed by the sun to Samos / Albergue Domus Itineris.

Day 10 – Wednesday, October 21
Walked from Samos / Domus Itineris to Saria / Cristal hotel – almost 17 kms through lovely countryside – lots of cows and valleys (that’s code for way too much up and down).

Day 11 – Thursday, October 22
Walked from Sarria / Cristal Hotel to Mercadoiri / La bodeguina de Mercadoiri then taxied to Portomarin / Albergue El Caminante. Another long day – 18kms walking with a lot of new peregrino friends who join now it’s less then 100 kms to Santiago de Compostala.

You’ll need a map  of the Camino to get the most out of this blog. It takes a long time to put together something presentable on the net. I’ve discovered that I just don’t have the time to journal,  personal reflections and blogging, public presentation of the walk,  so I’m choosing journaling  and you folk get the dry details plus a few photos which may be worth 1000 words anyway.

Each of these places have as many stories as people we met, plus our experiences getting there, staying there, and the conversations with each other.  However you folks seem to want to blog so this is what you’re getting. You’ll have to take me out for breakfast when I get back if you want those stories.

Day 2 – Tuesday, and  October 13 Day 2 – Villa Mazarife / Albergue San Antonio de Padua to Hospital de Orbigo / Albergue Verde. This was an amazing Albergue full of  peace and love and great vegetarian food.

Wednesday October 14 Day 3 – bussed from Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga / Albergue Verde – then walked  8.7 kms. To Santa Catalina de Somaza /Albergue El Caminante

Thursday October 15 Day 4 – walked from Santa Catalina de Somaza / Albergue El Caminante to Foncebadin / Albergue Monte Irago.  It was uphill most of the way it was quite the walk. Here’s the sunrise at Foncebadin.

Friday, October 16 – Day 5 Took a
taxi for 10 euros each from Foncebadin / Albergue Monte Irago to Molinaseca / Albergue Santa Marina.  We first stopped at Santa Cruz and laid our burdens down then continued. The ride is a story in itself.  This is a shot of the famous bridge in Molinaseca. I’ve just discovered that the pictures are disappearing off my iPhone. This is disconcerting and hopefully they’re there somewhere.

Saturday, October 17 – day 6 Walked from
Molinaseca to Ponferrada – 7.7kms. Then bussed from Ponferrada to Villafranca Del Bierzo to Albergue  de la Piedra.

Monday, October 12/15 1423

We got up at 644am, used our free breafast and then we waited in the rain until 830 and then caught a bus to Virgen Del Camino. We had decided on walking to Villa Mazarife only 13.8 km., a easy first day.

It felt good getting off the bus and putting on our packs for real. We found the yellow arrows and set off – walking the Camino. First time for  Linda and myself; day 27 for Kathy and Allen. We almost missed the way to Mazarife.  Sometimes those yellow arrows are hard to see or interpret. Other pilgrims waved to us from the right path which was to the left rather than right – which would’ve taken us to Viladangos Del Paramo. I’d read that the path to Mazarife was nicer, the other way is more on the highway.

And it was very scenic, muddy in places but it was in the country, after all. The red clay soil was quite sticky  and coloured shoes and clothes quickly. There had been a bit of rain lately and you can tell. After 3.7 kms. According to the Camino maps I have on my iPhone – we stopped for coffee at a small bar restaurant in Oncina de la Valdoncina. Nice break. Good coffe, clean bano – Spanish for bathroom,  without funny thing over the ‘n’, and the obligatory stamp. We followed the yellow arrows to Chozas de Abajo, and a nice bar with tables outside. We had picked up some groceries in Leon yesterday and so we had a good lunch of bread, cheese, ham and turkey and some fruit. Half a dozen other pilgrims came and left while we were there. “Buen Camino’s” all around and another nice stamp.

We Have set a good pace for having good conversation or not and just e by yourself if you want. Feels good to be on the road.

It als feels good to be sitting down at albergue. We’re staying at Albergue San Antonio de Padua, Villar de Mazarife @1400ish. Walked around Mazarife. Sat in bar with a bunch of old guys (30) playing cards or dominoes. Linda and I had Vino tinto – my Spanish word of day. One old guy was very friendly – in Spanish – I felt he was genuinely interested. Didn’t understand him but I liked our brief interaction and would like to be a friendly old guy even if people don’t understand me. It’s more about my attitude. Who I am / want to be – more than how others take me.

Thomas Merton’s words seem appropriate  for our first night on the Camino.
Be still
Listen to the stones of the wall.
Be silent, they try
To speak your
Name. …

Who (be quiet)
Are you (as these stones
Are quiet). Do not
Think of what you are
Still less of
What you may one day
be.
Rather
Be what you are (but
who?) be
The unthinkable one
You do not know.

“I will try, like them
To be my own silence:
And this is difficult. The
whole
World is secretly on fire.
The stones
Burn, even the stones

Guide me o thou great Jehovah

Sunday, October 11/15

After a good sleep and breakfast, we all wandered over to the big cathedral. K&A paid to tour inside while Linda and I wandered around the walled part of Leon. We then met up with K&A and wandered some more, eating tapas and drinks at a couple places we happened upon. We went for supper with pilgrims K&A had met on the way – a couple from Australia, a woman from California coast and some Irish young people.

Linda & I left them exchanging stories and went to mass and the perigrino / pilgrim blessing at the Real Basilica San Isidore – that church we first saw on Saturday afternoon.

We plan to take a bus from Leon at 8:30am to Virgen Del Camino. Then will we walk to Villa Mazarife only 13.8 km. a easy first day.

We took the Barcelona Bus Turistic – double decker bus city tours today. Great ride with commentary – seeing the sights. Good introduction to a very interesting historical city, including Gaudi’s spectacle. Walked up the La Rambia, got our train tickets for Madrid, went to supper at the same place we as last night – different food and drink but good as usual – both times.

I’m happier than this selfie looks like…maybe my face reflects my lack of understanding at Gaudi’s project. Lots of amazing symbolism and very artful which I’m sure God appreciates.

Went into a few other churches in our wanderings – we weren’t lost, just wandering. It was a bit strange looking around like a tourist at the great architecture and stained glass windows. I’m feeling the need to take more time while “visiting” theses sacred places to find a sense of prayerfulness but then again we’re always in the presence of the Holy. True. But there’s something about intentionality that helps the soul more than philosophy. Linda commented that going into the churches and at least taking a moment – is a reminder we’re on a pilgrimage as well as a vacation – which I have a tendency to forget as I cope with a new country, city, language, people, food…It’s all good, not perfect (like my spiritual director says) but good.

Being around lots of churches came in handy as we prayed for Dan and his leg. Thought the color of the Madonna was appropriate seeing as he’s in Africa. Lit some candles for him–electronic candles. Interesting experience that. I’m sure God heard the prayers but putting money in and watching the electric lights come on seemed different than the flickering lights that we saw in so many places today.

Thomas’s birthday today so we stepped off the main Avenue into a little alley  to give him a birthday phone call. This is the mural/graffiti that we stood by while calling

Ended the day going to the subway entrance to make sure we knew how to get to the train we’re taking to Madrid tomorrow – always better safe than sorry.